CT Racing Maverick Build

[AReed]

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Well it was a weekend of tough luck. We broke the stub on the right rear axle shaft which caused the unit bearing to come apart. When the unit bearing comes apart the only thing holding the tire on is a the caliper in rotor, the pins in the caliper folded over and off she went.

The hardest part was we were in first place when it happened after about an hour of solid running. We were running with the Jeeps and lap track and slower vehicles were a big factor.

The rear radiator was a great change as its still clean and it never got over the half mark. It was well protected and we probably would have had issues if it was still in the front as a Teryx melted down after his radiator got packed with mud. Weather in NC has been tough these last two months as I heard we got 21 inches of rain in June.

The shock tune and spring rates that we have were unbelievable. We changed the rebound valving the day of the race at the track and the tires stay on the ground and never packs or bucks. There was a small 3 foot drop off and it was like landing on clouds. It never bottomed and it soaked up everything with ease. It was very impressive to watch us and the other stock maverick run out there, he was all over the place and we were planted.
Also the factory air box is a complete piece of shit.

 

[skunx]

Bitchin.! glad the car worked great minus the cv snout. i personally have been through four of these cv ends and summers brothers is working on a replacement setup because this issue is the only mav. problem we are seeing at this time. most people are not having the problem but a handful of us are. so far the short term fix is new cv end every race until jose whips us something up. We are supposed to see something before next weekends worcs race.!

 

[AReed]

I'm going to call them today and see what I can figure out. I have another race this weekend and I need to get it back together.

 

[AReed]

I called Summer Brothers today and he said 3 months before they release something to the public for the Maverick. He hasn't started on a design and doesn't have anything to test yet.
I did call the other Jose at Cobra axles and he has axles in stock ready to ship so I have two rears coming my way.

It appears that the heat treat in the rear outer CVs was done wrong and the threads are too hard causing them to be brittle and break with a side load on them. The Cobra axles has larger thread and the CVs offer more deflection than the stock ones so I'm going to give them a try, plus they have a one year warranty.

 

[LukeEdmondson7x]

I was the guy who melted his teryx!! Yay for me, but I can honestly say I passed a maverick.

 

[Craig685]

Hi I have been following this thread and I was wondering how things are going since your last post?
More pictures , clutch setup if possible I assume you have secrets ,however some baseline springs ,and weights would be appreciated .
I am fascinated with clutches and you seem to have had no problems with your clutch setup.
Thank you
Craig685

 

[AReed]

The Maverick has gone through a handful of changes. So far this year I've broke two rear axles while in first place and that pissed me off.
Last race I hit a tree on the very first lap of qualifying which knocked me out for the day. I got the forklift ride of shame. Good times.
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After that I knew I needed to get it back to stock width because the 30s and HiPers were't doing it for me. I'm on my third helix now due to the 30's which was custom cut so once I finally got clutching done I swapped tire.
Right now I'm on 27x9 Dirt Commanders on 14" Methods. I've been supporting Method for years with our Jeep and Buggy work and I wanted to continue to support them.
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It looks funny with 27s on it now.
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The Maverick sat for about a month while I worked on control arms. At the last race when I hit the tree I bent the lower control arm pretty bad but it didn't break. I decided that since I was going down to 27s I was going to need a little more ground clearance. So into cad I went to work on arms. It took several cuts to get what I wanted but this is where I ended up.
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Tubular arms weren't an option since I needed these arms to take a direct impact over and over on rock and them not give. I arched them pretty high and notched out the middle for the axle to pass through. The first set of arms I JIGed and installed were great. They had issues but they were minor and all the issues were at the last 3/4" of wheel travel on the droop side.

 

[AReed]

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They turned out great laying on the ground even with my broken TIG and me havin to lay down some mig work.
And into the Maverick they went!
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While I was in the area I made some new tie rods for myself since I'm running the Wicked Bilt rack. I figured I should be running the stuff that I sell. I installed my new high misalignment spacers that take the bump steer out of the steering throughout the travel and since they mount higher I went ahead and welded a tab and made them double shear.
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I lowered it down about 1.5" and revalved the shocks or the change in ride height, easy enough. I needed a little more low speed compression to battle the lack of up travel compared to before so some minor valve changes and they're back on. I added a 50" lightbar so we can run UTVRR and also I lightbar in the rear so no one nails me in the dust if we get into traffic or need to change a tire.

 

[AReed]

This is the way she sits now.
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I'll be changing over to some Gorilla outers as I've heard that no one has broke them yet. I hope with the combination of the smaller tires and the new outer it won't break and we can take home a win for the next/last ECORS race.

Over the winter I'll be changing the steering, building rear arms to match the front, and rear hubs and spindles.

 

[Timberdog]

Nice work, good luck on your next race. Sounds like you're having a blast.

 

[AReed]

I didn't realize the pictures were so bad.

We tested the new arms in WV over the weekend and they did great. The extra clearance was a huge help through some of the holes and over some rocks. We had a great time. The bump steer spacers, the new shock tune and a handful of other changes made this thing feel like it was on rails, it's by far the best it's ever been.

 

[AReed]

Here's a clip while we were tuning shocks

[ame]http://youtu.be/dw_bwZ8EW6o[/ame]

 

[AReed]

Finalizing the front a arms. These will carry over into a LT kit down the road.

 

[badassmav]

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Well it was a weekend of tough luck. We broke the stub on the right rear axle shaft which caused the unit bearing to come apart. When the unit bearing comes apart the only thing holding the tire on is a the caliper in rotor, the pins in the caliper folded over and off she went.

The hardest part was we were in first place when it happened after about an hour of solid running. We were running with the Jeeps and lap track and slower vehicles were a big factor.

The rear radiator was a great change as its still clean and it never got over the half mark. It was well protected and we probably would have had issues if it was still in the front as a Teryx melted down after his radiator got packed with mud. Weather in NC has been tough these last two months as I heard we got 21 inches of rain in June.

The shock tune and spring rates that we have were unbelievable. We changed the rebound valving the day of the race at the track and the tires stay on the ground and never packs or bucks. There was a small 3 foot drop off and it was like landing on clouds. It never bottomed and it soaked up everything with ease. It was very impressive to watch us and the other stock maverick run out there, he was all over the place and we were planted.
Also the factory air box is a complete piece of shit.

Regarding the outer stub axles: Can-am engineers recommend using an oversized retaining nut (32mm castellated nut, they sell 'em) and washer for extra clamping force/leverage. Use lots red loctite (271) where the axle splines pass thru the wheel flange casting, and increase the torque to 200 ft. lbs. on the new retaining nut. I made a removal tool so I wouldn't need to heat up the loctite to remove the wheel /drive flange. We raced our 2000lb. car (2013 Maverick 1000 Xrs) w/30"tires all season w/out any failures.

 

[AReed]

Regarding the outer stub axles: Can-am engineers recommend using an oversized retaining nut (32mm castellated nut, they sell 'em) and washer for extra clamping force/leverage. Use lots red loctite (271) where the axle splines pass thru the wheel flange casting, and increase the torque to 200 ft. lbs. on the new retaining nut. I made a removal tool so I wouldn't need to heat up the loctite to remove the wheel /drive flange. We raced our 2000lb. car (2013 Maverick 1000 Xrs) w/30"tires all season w/out any failures.

Yup I'm on Can Ams race team as well. Everything was lock tighted and torqued to 200 when it broke. It's a flawed design and bandaid on a problem. Your desert racing isn't like our racing on the east coast. We tear these kinds of parts up very fast. Since swapping to the Gorilla outer with a .800 threaded shank vs the stock .700 threaded shank I have not broke any outers. I'm working with RCV to build an even better outer.

 

[badassmav]

Yup I'm on Can Ams race team as well. Everything was lock tighted and torqued to 200 when it broke. It's a flawed design and bandaid on a problem. Your desert racing isn't like our racing on the east coast. We tear these kinds of parts up very fast. Since swapping to the Gorilla outer with a .800 threaded shank vs the stock .700 threaded shank I have not broke any outers. I'm working with RCV to build an even better outer.

So Gorilla makes an aftermarket outer stub axle for the Mav? Are they 4340 (300m)? Do they offer cv's, or do they machine the inside part of the stub axle to receive oem cv's? Since the rear axle assemblies are symmetrical, I assume you mark the stubs when they are new as to which side they mount on. Axles made from medium carbon alloy steel will not last when subject to stress reversals. Running a used axle on the opposite side of which it was originally mounted is a fundamental no-go (I'm sure you are aware of this fact. I'm playing "Captain Obvious" just in case!)

 

[AReed]

So Gorilla makes an aftermarket outer stub axle for the Mav? Are they 4340 (300m)? Do they offer cv's, or do they machine the inside part of the stub axle to receive oem cv's? Since the rear axle assemblies are symmetrical, I assume you mark the stubs when they are new as to which side they mount on. Axles made from medium carbon alloy steel will not last when subject to stress reversals. Running a used axle on the opposite side of which it was originally mounted is a fundamental no-go (I'm sure you are aware of this fact. I'm playing "Captain Obvious" just in case!)

Gorilla is building them from 4340 and they're properly heat treated which is something that not a whole lot of people are doing right. Its a complete outer CV and you just pop the stock shaft in it. Up until this point I don't know of anyone that has broke a Gorilla outer CV in the threaded area which is great. I'd like to see the threaded part be a little bigger from a longevity standpoint but if none of the top racers are breaking them then its good. I broke a Cobra outer in about 4 hours of it being new so I'm back to running all stock axles with Gorilla outers. If we can get a better driver inner that won't break off in the diff we'd have all our axle problems solved.

 

[EVE_Designs]

Nice! Keep us posted on the build and racing

 

[AReed]

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[BMan]

Good stuff Alex! Did you ever get anywhere with RCV making the outters?