Has anyone built extended trailing arms for an xp900 or 1000? Ive seen the lt kits extend out 2 and 3 inchs and back 2 and 3 inchs but im wanting to keep the stock width but extend the trailing arms 2 inchs for a little more wheelbase. My biggest concern is if my axles will have to be any longer or if it will put too much bind on cvs, I wouldnt think it would
Polaris trailing arms?
- Thread starter jkonces
- Start date
Orb fab built some. The shocks mount in stock location would need revalved and resprung due to more leverage and limit straps to keep from snapping axles when it droops out. I thought about doin it myself and would love the extra wheelbase but I dont think it would be worth all the trouble
Lots of issues with doing this. It is doable but as was pointed out, longer arms change the leverage point. Going wider not only increases your stability it also can give you more travel without binding the C.V.'s. Moving the diff would help with the front to back angle changes caused by the longer arms but you still won't be able to utilize the increased travel without binding the C.V.'s. Not sure what the upside from doing all the work would be? Basically C.V.'s will only handle so much angle. The only way to get more travel is to go wider.
It is a mathematical certainty that if you maintain the inner cv location, and move rearward the outer cv location, that you will either have to add limit straps and limit your wheel travel, or buy longer axles to protect you from over-extending your axles.. If you are going to extend the length of your trailing arm, you should consider moving the lower shock mount more rearward as well, and getting longer stroking shocks. Unlike the Maverick, you can't relocate the rear diff without moving the motor, as it is part of the engine/tranny package.
Thank you i believe the work not to be worth it considering what is involved, i wasnt thinking of increasing travel just wheelbase for stability, i think i will start at the front first, fix my front shock angle and see how it does, i dont think i want to go any wider
badassmav: once i do all of that have you guys been ordering regular 2.0 or 2.5 coilovers from fox or king, because the shocks will be longer than otc utv shocks, i cycled my stock suspension today and the oem fox shocks definately have a long body and short shaft, there is more up travel to be had potentially cycling it without a bind, im figuring (really rough measurements) that setting the upper mount up 5 up and out and moving the arm mount about 2 inches further out a fox 10" stroke 2.0 coilover cylces almost exactly the right length and i have about 15" of travel at stock width, all imput appreciated
we have just finished our LT front arms that incorporate an upper shock tower that will help the motion ratio of the factory or factory replacement shock, it adds 4" of width per side and adds about .75" of wheel travel but at a way better motion ratio!!
If you can walk me thorough the steps you took to reach the 140 lb/in spring rate, I will better understand your needs. Just give me time to respond, as I am swamped with finishing our car for parker.
been slammed myself, here goes my math: i pretty much used the same formula you did in the mav build. my ratio of mechanical leverage is 1.17, im not 100% on corner weight but im guessing it at 350, multiplied that by 5gs and got 1750 force of gravity. i divided that by my wheel travel at 16" and got 109 lbs/in which is at a 1:1 shock/wheel motion. my average shock angle is 52.5, using this sin52.5 is .79, as a ration i got 1.27. i told my wheel motion of 109 and multiplied that by my mech. leverage of 1.17 and got 127.5. multiplied this by my disadvantage of 1.27 and resulted in a 161.9lb/in spring rate. with this number how do i figure my total dual spring rate on the front? let me know if this is confusing because i had to go over it a few times