OFF TOPIC. Joey set this thread up to be a compendium of Teryx Suspension Sytems available on the market, not another discussion on what LT is best. Come on guys, back on topic. Have your mfg post up his system Steve, I'd like to see it.
your guys are really getting 16" up front with a 6" stroke shock?OFF TOPIC. Joey set this thread up to be a compendium of Teryx Suspension Sytems available on the market, not another discussion on what LT is best. Come on guys, back on topic. Have your mfg post up his system Steve, I'd like to see it.
Yes sir Kyle! It actually measured out to 16 1/8" lol!your guys are really getting 16" up front with a 6" stroke shock?
if so - thats awesome
that nice!! wish the Rhino could get that much with a 6" shockYes sir Kyle! It actually measured out to 16 1/8" lol!
kyle,that nice!! wish the Rhino could get that much with a 6" shock
ok - so i hear of kits with a +6 arm and a 8" shock moving the tab out on the arm and doing a tower and they were getting more travel then the 6" shock- is that not true?kyle,
It doesn't have to do with the length of the shock.. the rhino is stuck at less travel because of the cv joints, and ground clearance. They can only move so much. You could put a 4" stroke shock on, or a 12" stroke shock, and still get the same wheel travel. It all depends on where the mounts are located and the leverage ratios involved with running a certain length shock.
A 4" stroke shock would have a really high leverage ratio needing super stiff valving and springs, and would have to be located a lot closer to the chassis side pivot points, and the opposite would be true with a 12" shock.
just wanted to shed a little light on it for ya.
G-
We tested our kit both ways at first and felt it worked better with rear toe in place!!! and the only correct way to make it adjustable is to use some type of heim or bearing on the pivot end so that was an added cost we didnt feel people wanted to pay forWho is that and what kit for the teryx does he build?
i am sure there are opinions for everything, but i like to test them and see what i find to work. If you just follow what everyone else has you will be doing just that .......
Its hard to say... the shock could be the limiting factor, but it really depends on the overall design. The main limits are ball joint/uniball angles, cv joint angles and ground clearance needed at full compression. The arms can only go so far down due to limits of joints, and they can only go so far up or else the chassis hits the ground. There are scenerios that if you stuck a longer shock on, you could get more wheel travel, but that is only becuase the shorter shock wasn't using all the travel available. So i guess what i am trying to say is, you can't base the travel strictly on length of the shock.ok - so i hear of kits with a +6 arm and a 8" shock moving the tab out on the arm and doing a tower and they were getting more travel then the 6" shock- is that not true?
I understand the leverage deal for the most part. I guess I need to read up more on shocks.
So do you get a better ride with the longer shocks or just eaiser tuning?
Brain good to hear that ...... what did you find the car was doing worse with the rear toe gone?We tested our kit both ways at first and felt it worked better with rear toe in place!!!
No its not ....... but i dont want to get into that one.and the only correct way to make it adjustable is to use some type of heim or bearing on the pivot end
Is this the "California Radius" wheel travel measurement or is it trueYes sir Kyle! It actually measured out to 16 1/8" lol!
Now that is some effin funny chit right dar .......Is this the "California Radius" wheel travel measurement ?
Actually, that is true wheel travel measured by Jim Anderson, our new suspension tech formerly of :: TForce Motorsports :: .Is this the "California Radius" wheel travel measurement or is it true
travel from full droop and full compression???
I agree ... but i think this thread is starting to give alot of great info. i mean the specs the manufacture puts in the boxes is not really all that important IMO. Now take all these kits installed and have one person cyle them the same way. Then take the measurments all the same way ... THEN that one person post his findings. That would be solid. Maybe that would be a great start for a suspension shootout?...... I will take 14 inches of quality travel over 18 inches of not so great travel all day long.Again, rather than making this thread another "I know more than you" go around, let's get back on topic. .
Not sure what kit i am going to run yet ...... lots of options before i drop any coin.Let's see your new kit Steve. .
who knows when and if it will ever get done and if it does it wont be available for anyone to buy anyways. So the REAL numbers it has wont matter. What willmatte ris that it will have stuff no other kits i have seen have.Please use Joey's template and post the specs as well.
I thought I was this was a real question!!!Actually, that is true wheel travel measured by Jim Anderson, our new suspension tech formerly of :: TForce Motorsports :: .
Again, rather than making this thread another "I know more than you" go around, let's get back on topic. Let's see your new kit Steve. Please use Joey's template and post the specs as well.