Yamaha R1 Rhino build up

marc177s

New Member
Jan 2, 2011
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After long discussions with myself (and they where interesting) I decided to do a R1 build. I would like to race it in the LOORR series in the SR1 class eventually and do some Desert races also. So I'm trying to do the build with LOORRS and VORRA in mind.
I picked up an '03 Yamaha R1 motor kit at a pretty good price and a stock Rhino frame online.
So after a request from my brother I decided to post the build online. So here it is.
I'm kinda winging it right now since I really have nothing to go off of. This is my 1st UTV. I've never even rode in one. I've been printing alot of pict's from online builds though.
Since I plan on doing some Desert races and even though the LOORRS rules say I can use .095 wall 1.5 DOM tubing, I decided to take the extra weight and make the main portion of the cage with 1.5 x .120 wall DOM.
The more I get done the more exited I'm getting in driving this thing.
Seem's to be coming together okay so far.
I'll post more updates as the project goes.
Any feedback would be appreciated.

Got the frame in a couple weeks ago and mocked the motor in place.

Got the motor mount in from Weller Racing. I'm going to do the rear carrier a little different though. Instead of using the rotating carrier as a chain tensioner, I'm going to install a jack shaft with tapered roller bearings on each side of the mount for an external chain tensioner. I'm also going to use a chevy flywheel and a mini high torque starter for my reverse. I plan on mounting a Delco 1 wire 100 amp alternator for the juice.



Picked up my tubing last week and started on the cage this weekend.
 
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Zerofield

Pit Junky - UTVUnderground Approved
Dec 13, 2009
169
1
0
Arizona
btw just trying to help...you always wanna try to end your tube into another tube. so the V bars should be a bit closer together and join into the othe bars coming up.
 

Austin Kimbrell

Monster Energy Kawasaki - UTVUnderground Team Driv
Jan 27, 2009
285
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Arizona ASU
After long discussions with myself (and they where interesting) I decided to do a R1 build. I would like to race it in the LOORR series in the SR1 class eventually and do some Desert races also. So I'm trying to do the build with LOORRS and VORRA in mind.
I picked up an '03 Yamaha R1 motor kit at a pretty good price and a stock Rhino frame online.
So after a request from my brother I decided to post the build online. So here it is.
I'm kinda winging it right now since I really have nothing to go off of. This is my 1st UTV. I've never even rode in one. I've been printing alot of pict's from online builds though.
Since I plan on doing some Desert races and even though the LOORRS rules say I can use .095 wall 1.5 DOM tubing, I decided to take the extra weight and make the main portion of the cage with 1.5 x .120 wall DOM.
The more I get done the more exited I'm getting in driving this thing.
Seem's to be coming together okay so far.
I'll post more updates as the project goes.
Any feedback would be appreciated.

Got the frame in a couple weeks ago and mocked the motor in place.

Got the motor mount in from Weller Racing. I'm going to do the rear carrier a little different though. Instead of using the rotating carrier as a chain tensioner, I'm going to install a jack shaft with tapered roller bearings on each side of the mount for an external chain tensioner. I'm also going to use a chevy flywheel and a mini high torque starter for my reverse. I plan on mounting a Delco 1 wire 100 amp alternator for the juice.



Picked up my tubing last week and started on the cage this weekend.
"for my reverse"

i dont think u will be able to race lucas then if ur putting in reverse... i could be wrong tho
 

LSRGreg

#877 SR1 UTV - UTVUnderground Approved
Jan 26, 2009
365
10
0
yeah. no reverse allowed in LOORRS for SR1 class, so i am sure as long as you disable it, you will be fine.

Just curious.. how come your not going to use the rotating housing for chain adjustment? Its a simple design, easy to adjust, and has no issues. Why make it more complicated with jack shaft and stuff? Just curious.

good luck with the build!
G-
 

megadesertdiesel

Well-Known Member
Jan 25, 2009
1,838
73
48
Mesa, AZ
i would agree with Greg on that. the Weller design is really easy to use and i only adjusted mine after the first run with a new chain.

with cage design i always try to leave no dead tubing. in other words tie in to another intersection of tubing, it makes the whole cage super strong.

saving pictures of others builds is what i do too. i have them printed at Walgreens then my 8 year old glues them to a posterboard for me and i hang it in the garage for reference.

keep the build updates comming.
 

marc177s

New Member
Jan 2, 2011
34
1
0
Thanks for the input. This is why I posted this, so others will catch my mistakes. The tubes will be moved today. I really didn't even think of that.

As for the reverse gear,

"Drive Train: Direct Chain Drive (no differentials/ FNR boxes)"

I won't have a FNR gear box. It really doesn't say no reverse. Maybe it will pass, maybe not. I can always disable it if I have to.

I'm sure the Weller design is a good one and works fine. But not ever being around an R1 or not having talked to anyone who runs one, me and another buddy of mine had some concerns with the carrier rotating in the housing under that much torque, also how much adjustment you get out of the chain. But like I said, I'm sure the Weller works great with no problems. The other reason I went this route is mainly cost. I'll have about $250 into my differential which uses a 13 spline 1.75" PTO shaft. I'm using 930 axles so I fab'd up my own flanges. I'll post some pict's when I get to that point.
This is my 1st Rhino build so I'll see how it goes and make whatever changes I need to along the way.



 

07fj

Rainman - UTVUnderground Approved
Jan 19, 2009
1,383
25
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Tonopah, Az
he is correct, LOORRS does not say "no reverse". this is building within the rules.

also Teryx with ZX-10 motors are allowed this year.
 

LSRGreg

#877 SR1 UTV - UTVUnderground Approved
Jan 26, 2009
365
10
0
There are 4 8mm bolts that clamp down on the housing to keep it locked in place. It won't rotate. It has enough back and forth adjustment to adjust the chain with no issues. Pretty much every rear end on a sport ATV is done this way, so its nothing new. Just nice and simple. Something you might also want to think about is spare parts. If your running a bunch of stuff that is custom one off parts, and you brake it, your weekend is over, unless you plan on building all your drivetrain parts with spares. If your running the same stuff as everyone else, chances are you can get somehting at the track.

looking forward to see what you build!

G-
 

Zerofield

Pit Junky - UTVUnderground Approved
Dec 13, 2009
169
1
0
Arizona
he is correct, LOORRS does not say "no reverse". this is building within the rules.

also Teryx with ZX-10 motors are allowed this year.

as some of my friends call them shady areas...and they pretty much have found them all.
 

marc177s

New Member
Jan 2, 2011
34
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0
Got to work on the Rhino a little this week. I finished off the rear carrier, chain tensioner, mounted the seats, and finished my reverse setup (I will need to make a flywheel cover though).

I'll start on the rear hubs and control arms probably this weekend.

I've decided to go with Mazda RX-7 GS rotors and calipers. It turns out the year ('84) I'm using also uses a 4 on 110mm wheel pattern, this way I can get pads and rotors for dirt cheap and at any auto parts store. I'll be running 4 wheel disc.

I also added a picture of the splined PTO shafts I'm using for the carrier and the rear stub shafts. They are 1 3/8" OD with a 1 3/4" OD splined collar. Hopefully using these shafts is overkill.

I'm actually pretty happy with the way it's coming out.

I put the tires at about 75" wide in the photo and slapped on a borrowed hood. I'm still waiting for my Empire body kit to come in.
This should be fairly close to the ride height that I'll be running for the off-road setup. I'll re-locate the shocks for short course to drop the stance a little.

If my measurements are correct, I'll have close to 17" of ground clearance and 22" of travel.

I'm holding off on doing anymore frame work till I get the body kit.

Hopefully this thing won't be too hard to figure the wiring out.






 

Wild Earp

50Fifty Racer - UTVUnderground Approved
did you machine the piece that mounts the starter motor, or is that a stock starter adapter for something else?

Does the flywheel hang below the frame? (I assume it does) How much?

You may want to double check the rules for LOORRS, Im pretty sure that aluminum fuel cell isnt legal, as you need a metal can with bladder. (If Im remembering right)

Looking good
 

marc177s

New Member
Jan 2, 2011
34
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0
did you machine the piece that mounts the starter motor, or is that a stock starter adapter for something else?

Does the flywheel hang below the frame? (I assume it does) How much?

You may want to double check the rules for LOORRS, Im pretty sure that aluminum fuel cell isnt legal, as you need a metal can with bladder. (If Im remembering right)

Looking good
Thanks Ben,

If you mean the aluminum block on the starter motor, no I didn't. It actually came with it when I bought the motor. It's a mount for a big block chevy.

If you mean the 1/2" plate that I mounted the starter motor to engine mount, yes I machined that.

The flywheel does hang below the frame 1 1/2". So I plan on building a rolled steel skid plate under the flywheel.
I plan on running in some local VORRA events so I had to have a working reverse. This way I have about $100 into it instead of $1500 for a gear box. Plus LOORRS won't allow FNR gear boxes.

I couldn't find anything in the LOORRS rules about aluminum fuel cells. For VOORA they do allow aluminum but I will need to install a bladder.
If the fuel cell becomes a tech problem then I guess it's really not a big deal. It's easy enough to replace.

I just talked to the shipping co. and my body kit will be here tomorrow. I'll get started back on the frame tomorrow and get that knocked out this week I hope.
 

BiggJim

I Hate Rules - UTVUnderground Approved
Jan 15, 2009
2,079
452
83
Bakersfield
Looks sweet!!! Let me know if i can help out with a header. We worked with muzzy and have a production tri y header system available that will fit with the Weller Engine kit.

Also I think we are going to kit these without the tail section because everyones ride will be a little different.

 

marc177s

New Member
Jan 2, 2011
34
1
0
Looks sweet!!! Let me know if i can help out with a header. We worked with muzzy and have a production tri y header system available that will fit with the Weller Engine kit.

Also I think we are going to kit these without the tail section because everyones ride will be a little different.

I was going to fab up my own headers , but if you can do them cheap enough that would be great. What are you asking for a set?
 

BiggJim

I Hate Rules - UTVUnderground Approved
Jan 15, 2009
2,079
452
83
Bakersfield
I was going to fab up my own headers , but if you can do them cheap enough that would be great. What are you asking for a set?
Our Tri Y header system is stainless and equal length. Its also sprung at the collector to keep things from breaking in offroad conditions. I sell the header 750. I can also provide the muffler portion for an added cost.
 

Hounslow

El Jefe Numero Uno - UTVUnderground Approved
Jun 1, 2009
123
3
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38
did you machine the piece that mounts the starter motor, or is that a stock starter adapter for something else?

Does the flywheel hang below the frame? (I assume it does) How much?

You may want to double check the rules for LOORRS, Im pretty sure that aluminum fuel cell isnt legal, as you need a metal can with bladder. (If Im remembering right)

Looking good

F. Safety fuel cells shall consist of a bladder enclosed in a smooth skinned container. The
container shall be constructed of 20 gauge steel, 0.060-inch aluminum or 0.125-inch Marlex.
Rotary molded polymer cells are acceptable
 

marc177s

New Member
Jan 2, 2011
34
1
0
F. Safety fuel cells shall consist of a bladder enclosed in a smooth skinned container. The
container shall be constructed of 20 gauge steel, 0.060-inch aluminum or 0.125-inch Marlex.
Rotary molded polymer cells are acceptable
Those are the same rules I found for VORRA.

Got a little more done this week. Mostly tried catching up on the welding.
Re-worked the front section and started on the back half. I also got the alternator mostly installed. It will run off the flywheel that I'm using for reverse. I have a idler shaft running through the engine mount with sealed taper bearings on each side. The shaft goes out to a starter gear which is attached to the alternator pulley. Turned out okay.




 

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