Yamaha Cv joints, axle help

Bumpers

Member
Jan 23, 2012
190
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Alright guys heres tge question. Im running fabtech long travel. Anyway when I bought the kit it came with gorilla axles for the rear and just 4340 axles for the front. I got to go on 2 rides with the gorilla axles and I kept having the rears(both sides pop out) one came out and chewed a few splines off the inner passenger side joint but it is still usable just screwed up the end of them. I bought a set of summersbros 300m shafts with stock cvs anf the first ride out I snapped a cv within a matter of minutes.

Heres my question since I know a lot of you had rhinos back in the day and have experimented with them. What can I do to make the stock cv joints hold up? Cages ball bearings or anything like that ? I like the summers bros and stock joints because they are much lighter but it gets old snapping joints all the time.

Or my next option would be to reboot the gorilla that got chewed up clean the splines up with a drimmel and drill and bolt them together in the diff. I think the gorillas will definetly be stronger overall they are just heavy. Ive read many ppl have issues with them coming out of the diffs even gorilla told me it was a issue.

Any help will be appreciated guys

Thanks,
Garrett


if im posting im bored
 

c&c rhino

UTVUnderground SXS Tech - UTVUnderground Approved
Jan 18, 2009
351
11
18
lake elsinore, ca
the stock cv's only problem is less angle than a gorilla. the gorillas are notorious for having the wrong lengths. best set ive ever had were gorilla cv's with custom 300m axles. summers bros makes replacement gorilla axles i believe now. i would clearance, deburr and polish the cv's too.
 

Bumpers

Member
Jan 23, 2012
190
5
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hmm I was hoping the stock cvs and 300ms could be made to work... when I snapped this one it wasn't at droop or anything I was just one a 40 degree or so hill and hammered it and pop. Maybe limiting straps in the rear would help with that... I may just bolt the gorillas together and see how long that last
 

mochoa

New Member
Nov 13, 2011
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bolting the cv's together would be your last option, even gorilla would tell you the same. regarding the limit straps I would check your axles at all stages of travel and make sure you have plunge (1/4" if you have circlips on both ends of axles) if you have plunge at all points you don't need limit straps (unbolt shock to check). your axles could be the wrong length which is what is sounds like to me, gorilla cv's have square circlips on the cv joint which is usually not easy to take out if your cv's are to short when the suspension droops the circlip at the end of the axle will catch the star on the cage and axles will fall out. Again checking plunge would let you know.

gorillas have a higher spline count than stock cv's so the axles are not always compatible. don't worry I have the exact same problem going on read my forum on not your average every day
cv joint popping out problem. I have tried everything and cant fix my problem with gorilla cv's

good luck
 

Bumpers

Member
Jan 23, 2012
190
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I think im gunna keep running the 300m's since they seem to be less problematic and rebuild stock cvs with some good parts and hope for the best

if im posting im bored
 

mochoa

New Member
Nov 13, 2011
47
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0
Get new circlips before putting new cv joints back in and check your wheel travel at all points and make sure you have some plunge (1/4" if you have circlips on both ends)

good luck
 

Bumpers

Member
Jan 23, 2012
190
5
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Fabtech doesnt make the kit anymore I called about some tie rod extensions and they said they couldnt help me that the kits no longer in production.

I may have to do some limit straps once I get get my joint fixed im gunna do some checking and measuring and may have to limit it

if im posting im bored
 

ParaPros Racing

parapros racing
Jun 27, 2009
96
2
0
sun city CA
The reson They tend to break is because when the suspension is at full drop the axle is collapsed all the way in and Binds against the stub axle so that way the axle twist but the tip of the axle is stuck in the CV stub axle and that's why they tend to twist and snap off at the ends by putting a limiting strap You can adjust so that way your axle has a little bit of movement at full drop that way you will eliminate twisting axles and snapping them trust me I broke 10 before realizing this and soon as I put those straps on and adjusted it I have not broken a axle since then...
Brad
Paraprosracing.com
 

ParaPros Racing

parapros racing
Jun 27, 2009
96
2
0
sun city CA
Most people tend to think that Axel is extended at full drop but it is the opposite it is collapsed at full drop and extended when suspension is completely bottomed out ...

Brad
 

Bumpers

Member
Jan 23, 2012
190
5
18
even when I was stock suspension no lift anything I would break left rear inner joints like I am now. and most of the time they weren't at full drop or compression when they broke.
 

ParaPros Racing

parapros racing
Jun 27, 2009
96
2
0
sun city CA
What happens is When it's at full drop they bind up and they start cracking most of the time when they actually break is just underpower or turning ..
They will actually just start cracking a lot at full drop when the tip of the axle does not twist and the axle does thats when the cracks occur then after a while they break...

Brad
 

Bumpers

Member
Jan 23, 2012
190
5
18
Are the empi heavy duty joints any good? Ive priced all the upgrades and they are a bit steep if those joints are good I will order one or two of them and get some limit straps .. I kinda figured I was gunna need some anyways
 

mochoa

New Member
Nov 13, 2011
47
0
0
I wouldn't use Empi's cv's.

I personally would go with stock cv's since the all the guys racing who used to use gorillas are now running stock. (unless you want to spend some $ and go with the 930 cv converstion and be bulletproof)

or if your going to use Gorillas I would go with stock outters w/circlip and floater set up on the inner (no circlip) just make sure you have enough spline length for it to plunge)
 

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