All UTV's checking cv joints what to look for

megadesertdiesel

Well-Known Member
Jan 25, 2009
1,838
73
48
Mesa, AZ
i have replaced boots before and swapped in longer axles, but never really knew what to look for while had them apart. I need to pull mine apart and just check them out, i have 1400 dune miles on them.

Do the stars always line up or are they opposite?

should i always use new wire clips at the ends of the axles?

can i reuse the stock clip on boot bands or just use the ones you tighten with a tool and bend over?

what to look for in the stars and balls?
 
May 6, 2013
127
6
18
Yucaipa , Ca
I always look inside the cups of the axles to see if there was any binding from the axle . I had a stock set of axles on my car that were wearing out the inside of the cup. Look for heat and pitting on the stars. I always use new bands and boots once I take apart , just to be safe. In a bind if you don't have a tear I'm sure you could re-use a boot if cleaned really well to get a good seal.
 

mearsman

Active Member
Nov 2, 2011
459
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The boot bands are 2$ at napa. Cheap insurance if you ask me. I bought the band tool while I was there too.
From what I've read and been told, you look for wear at the location where's the ball bearings ride. Inspect the "ramps" for pitting or discoloration.


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tatum

Hans Solo - 2009 UTV Baja 500 & 1000 Winner - UTVU
Feb 10, 2009
1,450
198
63
arizona
Do I line up the stars?

If memory serves me correctly on my Teryx you just have to make sure the inner race and cage is faceing the correct direction.
It isn't like a 930 vw style where you have a fat and narrow part on the inner and outer race. On those you put the narrow opposite the wide when lining up.
 

badassmav

Well-Known Member
Jun 11, 2013
1,379
182
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60
Jamul
For sure, always use new boots and clamps. Speaking of clamps, can you guys please elaborate on the 2 dollar clamps from the auto parts store that you are referring to? We have a ton of extra front boots because BRP only sells the smaller front clamps with the 40.00 boot kit, and our learning curve on installing cv hardware was a long and wide one.

We only use Swepco 101 to grease the cv joints. Since we replace them every 1000 miles or less, and have never broken one, we have no protocol for visually inspecting the inner parts of the joints. BUT, I do have a "feel" method I use in between replacing the joints that works well for my piece of mind, if nothing else.. It is quite simply, the lash in the joint. I rock the car back and forth while it is in park. I can tell by how much the car rolls, the wear on the joints. I know. Coming from a scientific mind like mine, that's a pretty lame, cheesy way to inspect a component as dynamic as a cv joint.

Here's a cool trick that I learned back in Nam:
To stop the weeping or violation of the seal between the rubber boot and steel axle, simply cut off a small piece of a spray tube from a can of WD-40 or contact cleaner. Slide it in between the axle and rubber boot prior to tightening the band clamp. This will allow a path for the heated air to escape from inside of the rubber cv boot, so the pressure does not build up inside the cv joint, possibly causing a boot to rupture, or grease to leak out.
Okay, Truth be told, Adam from Airdam shared this with me on his V2R visit with us. It is good advice if you are running your cv's up to the maximum 31 degrees of deflection they could handle. Our cv's never get above 140 degrees. I assume it is because I limit the cv joint operating angles on the Monster Mav to 29 degrees. The fact that I widened our car to the max (+6" or so on each corner), and lined up the diff's with the outer cv's, is most likely why we have not experienced any woes in that area.
 

mearsman

Active Member
Nov 2, 2011
459
55
28
52
I bought the 2$ clamp cv clamp at napa auto parts.


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kmb760

Active Member
Mar 28, 2013
117
24
28
Here's a cool trick that I learned back in Nam:
To stop the weeping or violation of the seal between the rubber boot and steel axle, simply cut off a small piece of a spray tube from a can of WD-40 or contact cleaner. Slide it in between the axle and rubber boot prior to tightening the band clamp. This will allow a path for the heated air to escape from inside of the rubber cv boot, so the pressure does not build up inside the cv joint, possibly causing a boot to rupture, or grease to leak out.
I'm gonna have to try this on the axle i have to rebuild. Do you do it to both the inner and outer CVs
 

badassmav

Well-Known Member
Jun 11, 2013
1,379
182
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Jamul
I'm gonna have to try this on the axle i have to rebuild. Do you do it to both the inner and outer CVs
I would assume so. Our cv's do not get too hot, so it is not a big issue with us. I remember my first time attending an off road race for the purpose of spying on what the UTV guys were doing, and as the three of four entrants came into the finish, I felt each of the cv's and whoa, was I surprised on how hot they were! Above 200 degrees F. for sure, and one was closer to 300*. They were flinging grease everywhere due to the violation of the seal between the boot and axle, or because they split.

Then, when Airdam Adam passed on the wd-40 straw tip at V2R, it all made sense. Gotta love those home remedies! You know some dude holding a can of beer in one hand at 1 a.m., and a palm full of spent grease in the other, thought this up with one eye shut!!
 

Dirtchaser

New Member
Aug 16, 2014
7
0
1
Las Vegas
Then, when Airdam Adam passed on the wd-40 straw tip at V2R, it all made sense. Gotta love those home remedies! You know some dude holding a can of beer in one hand at 1 a.m., and a palm full of spent grease in the other, thought this up with one eye shut!!
Could you elaborate and share 'WD-40 straw tip'. Thanks in advance. Is this the breather trick?
 

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